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Pearls are classified by origin, then graded by size, shape, nacre thickness, color, luster, surface clarity and matching. These qualities are not considered equal. Some factors will be weighted to give them more influence in arriving at a final grade. A very thin nacre thickness, for example, could never yield a fine quality pearl.
Grading is relative to the best attainable quality for the type. For example, South Sea pearls, which grow in warmer water for longer periods of time, generally have a lower luster and more tiny blemishes than Japanese Akoya pearls that grow in colder water and for shorter periods of time. South Sea pearls are graded against each other, not by what would be expected for a similar quality Akoya pearl. |
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Luster
Luster is the deep inner glow of the pearl and its brilliance to the human eye. For cultured pearl experts, this factor is perhaps the most important indicator in evaluating cultured pearl quality because it is what separates the ordinary from the extraordinary. Throughout history, this unique quality has separated pearls from all other gems and it is what many experts term the heart and soul of a pearl. |
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Surface
Surface quality refers specifically to the abundance or absence of physical blemishes. When evaluating surface (the trade uses such terms as blemish, spotting and cleanliness), remember that cultured pearls are grown by live oysters in nature. As such, there are many uncontrollable forces that affect the surface. The fewer the natural markings or spots on the pearl's visible surface, the more expensive the pearl. |
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Color
Cultured pearls come in a variety of colors from silvery white to black, with a rainbow of colors inbetween.This includes body colors (the overall color) and overtones (translucent colors that appear over the body color). Color is entirely a matter of personal preference.Because of changes in the natural habitat, the availability of certain colors can vary - and scarcity affects price |
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Shape
Shapes range in descending order of value from round to semi-round, from off-round to oval and from drop to baroque. Generally the shapes from round to drop are pretty symmetrical, while anything baroque denotes a pearl that is completely asymmetrical or free-form. The more spherical (rounder) and symmetrical the pearl, the more valuable it will be. Irregular shaped pearls can be very attractive and are usually less expensive than round pearls. |
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Size
Pearls are measured by their diameter in millimeters. They can be smaller than one millimeter in the case of tiny seed pearls, or as large as twenty millimeters for a big South Sea pearl. The larger the pearl, other factors being equal, the more valuable it will be. Although this does depend on the type of pearl, for example if an extremely large Akoya pearl is discovered it may be more valuable than an average sized South Sea pearl. |
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Matching
Matching refers to pairs or strands, and addresses uniformity of color, luster, shape, spotting and graduation. The more uniform and aesthetically pleasing two or more pearls look together the more time was spent matching the pearls. This time to match pearls is reflected in the cost. If colors are intentionally mixed, it refers to the attractiveness of the combination. Each pearl in a strand has been selected to be placed between its neighbors on each side, and there should be no noticeable difference between pearls that are side-by-side. |
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